Cartier Panthère De Cartier Watches Hands-On Hands-On

Since Cartier reinvigorated its fine watchmaking department eight years ago, it has surprised us each year with one great complicated watch after another. This year, Cartier had a different kind of surprise: a resurrection of the Panthère de Cartier, which had been discontinued in the early aughts. Aside from a new Minute Repeater Mysterious Double Tourbillon (new in the sense that these complications are combined for the first time), the Cartier Panthère De Cartier was the main introduction at SIHH this year, making it clear that ladies’ watches aren’t second tier in marketing strength or sales.

Since Cartier reinvigorated its fine watchmaking department eight years ago, it has surprised us each year with one great complicated watch after another.
Since Cartier reinvigorated its fine watchmaking department eight years ago, it has surprised us each year with one great complicated watch after another.

When you look at the state of the watch industry over the past year, the reintroduction of the Panthère De Cartier is not all that surprising. Like the uk replica watches Tank, Santos, and other iconic volume collections, the Cartier Panthère is a bread-and-butter core collection: a sure thing in an unsteady market. With multiple references and price points, it is exactly what the market seems to call for, again, at the moment.

The Cartier Panthère was originally introduced in 1983, and the relaunch design is exactly the same as the original: square case with screws on the bezel, Roman numerals, railway track index, and a tiny Cartier logo embossed in the X digit – distinguishing it from the counterfeits. Only the bracelet construction is new – it is more supple. All the movements are quartz, which keeps the watch elegantly thin, and true to the original design, which came into being at the height of the quartz era.

The Cartier Panthère was originally introduced in 1983
The Cartier Panthère was originally introduced in 1983

The new Panthère de Cartier replica watches is a full collection in three sizes with a pavé version, a lacquer and gold version, a yellow gold version – a star of the original collection – and a two-tone model, with prices ranging from $4,000 to $140,000.

The Santos is also an iconic square-cased Cartier watch with Roman numerals and visible screws on the bezel, and at least one person I spoke to was confused about its similarity to the Cartier Panthère, so it’s worth showing the Santos here for comparison. The differences are subtle. The size of the bezel and screws are much smaller on the Cartier Panthère than on the Santos, and the lugs are more tapered, as is the crown. And on the Santos, there is no border on the railroad track index. (Although there was a border on the index of the original Santos watch created in 1904).

The Santos was created for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, a friend of Louis Cartier, to enable him to time his flight legs without having to take his hand off the controls to reach for his pocket watch. It was a hit in Parisian society, and Cartier launched it commercially a few years later. The Santos-Dumont’s square shape was revolutionary for its time, and thus began Cartier’s adventure into the world of shaped watches.

It is designed in concentric circles set with diamonds surrounding a panther also set with diamonds and lacquer.
It is designed in concentric circles set with diamonds surrounding a panther also set with diamonds and lacquer.

Although the Cartier Panthère volume collection was created in 1983, Cartier has been making jeweled Panther-themed watches since even before it created the Santos watch in 1904 – the only men who were wearing wristwatches at the time were soldiers in the South African Boer War, and that was because Africa’s climate was too hot for a waist coat, where a man’s pocket watch is properly kept. Cartier continues its tradition of jeweled Panther watches every year. This year, the new jewelry creations included, most notably, the Royale and the Joueuse. The Cartier Panthère Royale was inspired by a famous panther and sapphire brooch made by Cartier in 1949 for the Duchess of Windsor. It is designed in concentric circles set with diamonds surrounding a panther also set with diamonds and lacquer.

Cartier is going to be releasing the Panthère de Cartier line in June 2017 with 16 pieces that are designed to appeal to virtually every possible segment of the market. Just to keep it simple, we’ll go through the 22mm smaller models first followed by the 27mm versions.

Cost Of Entry: Cartier Watches Featured Articles

Welcome to the latest installment in our Cost of Entry series. In this aBlogtoWatch feature, we examine different brands through the lens of their most affordable model. Having previously looked at the entry-level offerings of Rolex, Omega, Panerai, and Hublot… today, a name well-known even far outside the world of watches: Cartier. And none other than the iconic Tank, in the form of the Cartier Tank Solo XL Automatic, represents the most affordable mechanical men’s watch Cartier offers, Cartier replica watches at around US$3,500. The question is, however, what exactly you get with the Cartier Tank Solo XL Automatic and how well it represents the brand.

We don’t need to tell you that Cartier is one of the world’s most well-known luxury brands. While I like to approach this series as a brand study rather than as how to buy into a prestigious name for the least amount of money possible… Cartier’s prestige and recognizability are undeniably a huge draw for a great many people around the world. Cartier has achieved a remarkably uk replica watches cohesive identity and consistency across a wide range of products, but where does the Cartier Tank Solo XL fit in to that? In this article, we want to look at what exactly the Cartier Tank Solo XL offers in terms of value, history, horological interest, style, and that more vague quality that is Cartier essence. The Cartier Tank turning 100 years old in 2017 also makes it timely to revisit its story that is a big part of the watch we are looking at today.

The Cartier Tank turning 100 years old in 2017 also makes it timely to revisit its story that is a big part of the watch we are looking at today.
The Cartier Tank turning 100 years old in 2017 also makes it timely to revisit its story that is a big part of the watch we are looking at today.

SHORT HISTORY OF THE CARTIER TANK
Founded in Paris, France, by Louis-François Cartier in 1847, Cartier as a company will be 170 years old in 2017, but is no longer a small family-run jeweler, of course. The three grandsons of the founder were Louis, Pierre, and Jacques, and together they oversaw Cartier’s expansion to become a globally recognized name – Louis being the most central to our story. The next Cartier generation, the children of the three brothers, sold the business in the 1970s to an investor group. And finally, in 2012, Cartier joined the Richemont Group where it resides today among illustrious colleagues of haute horlogerie.

Entire books have been written about Cartier and even about the Cartier Tank watch itself, and the basic story that Louis Cartier based the Tank design on the shape of WWI tanks seen on the Western Front is probably familiar to many readers. Cartier made clocks, pocket watches, and women’s wristwatches before wristwatches for men began to catch on – and when men did begin to wear wristwatches, Cartier played a major role in their wider adoption and the Cartier Tank was an important part of the transition from pocket to wrist.

Cartier played a major role in their wider adoption and the Cartier Tank was an important part of the transition from pocket to wrist.
Cartier played a major role in their wider adoption and the Cartier Tank was an important part of the transition from pocket to wrist.

The first wristwatch for men is sometimes said to be the Cartier Santos from 1904, designed by Louis Cartier – at least, this began to help popularize men’s wristwatches. It was certainly one of the earliest watches designed as a wristwatch, rather than a pocket watch adapted with straps for the wrist, or “strap watch.” Called a “silly ass fad” by some around the early part of the 1900s (which I find delightful), men’s wristwatches still needed time to be accepted by the mainstream. In 1916, The New York Times admitted that wristwatches were more than a passing fad, and WWI saw soldiers beginning to strap watches to their wrists for practical reasons.

Louis Cartier (1875–1942) designed a number of watches that are still part of Cartier’s lineup today, including the Santos, Tank, and Tortue. At that time Louis perhaps thought that the future of wristwatches meant non-round cases. This would also help distinguish them from the round pocket watches that had simply been adapted for the wrist. The first Cartier Tank watch was created in 1917 and the story goes that those initial models were given to General John Pershing of the American Expeditionary Force and his officers. In 1919, a total of six Tank watches were produced, but an icon had been created, and new versions have followed regularly since – you can see more about early Tanks and other early Cartier men’s watches here.

you can see more about early Tanks and other early Cartier men’s watches here.
you can see more about early Tanks and other early Cartier men’s watches here.

Part of the Tank’s history is the many significant 20th century figures who have prominently worn it. We won’t (can’t) list them all here, but monarchs, politicians, and true icons of sports and music have helped the tank achieve its status and are testament to its success.

Cartier Drive De Cartier Moon Phases & Drive De Cartier Extra-Flat Watches Hands-On Hands-On

Last year at SIHH, Cartier made waves with the debut of the men’s Drive de Cartier collection (hands-on here) that featured an all-new cushion-shaped case that has really seemed to resonate with longtime fans. This year, Cartier has added two new models with the Cartier Drive de Cartier Moon Phases watch and the Drive de Cartier Extra-Flat. Initial impressions here are that the Drive de Cartier Moon Phases presents a sufficiently pleasant, yet somewhat obvious option in steel or gold that adds variety to the collection and differentiates itself enough that it will be just right for some, and for others may simply elicit a “why not?” The Drive de Cartier Extra-Flat, however, looks sleek and sexy. In a way, I feel like the Drive de Cartier Extra-Flat realizes what the Drive de Cartier line should be all along. The catch? It’s only available in white or rose gold.

the Drive de Cartier line should be all along. The catch? It’s only available in white or rose gold.
the Drive de Cartier line should be all along. The catch? It’s only available in white or rose gold.

 

The Drive de Cartier Moon Phases watch maintains the 40mm x 41mm cushion-shaped case and is crafted either from steel (shown here) or 18k pink gold. On the latter, the octagonal crown is likewise made from 18k pink gold and both models are topped with sapphire. Two blued-steel hands glide across the guilloche dial with the classic Roman numerals. At 6 o’clock, you’ve got the moon phases sub-dial, and I can already tell the addition of the text reading “AUTOMATIC” is going to (ahem) “drive” some people nuts. In most likelihood, it’s there because Cartier didn’t want too a sudden break from the minute markers on the inner dial and because a lack of a seconds hand is common to quartz pieces. The white gap would look pretty stark, uk replica watches but it’s the only watch in the line that has the addition of this text, and all the models in the line contain automatic movements. Maybe the aesthetic choice just outweighs anything else.

The Drive de Cartier replica watches Moon Phases watch features the complication that accounts for the cycles of the moon and is described as “astronomic” due to the fact that it only needs to be adjusted for one day every 125 years – so save the manual for your grandchildren. The Drive de Cartier Moon Phases features the maison‘s new automatic winding 1904-LU MC which operates at 28,800Hz and has a 48-hour power reserve.

The Drive de Cartier Moon Phases watch maintains the 40mm x 41mm cushion-shaped case and is crafted either from steel (shown here) or 18k pink gold.
The Drive de Cartier Moon Phases watch maintains the 40mm x 41mm cushion-shaped case and is crafted either from steel (shown here) or 18k pink gold.

Now, the Cartier Drive de Cartier Extra-Flat watch measures in at a mere 6.6mm, which is more than 40% thinner than last year’s 2016 models. This lithe offering exudes elegance and sports a sunray satin-finished dial in place of Cartier’s beloved guilloche. The Drive de Cartier Extra-Flat case is also a bit smaller at 38mm x 39mm, and it has a 30m water-resistance rating. The piece is powered by the manually wound 430 MC and will be available in both white and pink gold. The 430MC caliber is based on the Piaget 430P, which is appropriate given Piaget’s reputation for slimness. The Cartier 430MC operates at 21,600vph and provides an, honestly, disappointing 36-hour power reserve. Again, no seconds here either, but the dial is largely untouched.

Cartier knows they are going to bug some folks with the fact that a steel model of the Drive de Cartier Extra-Flat isn’t available (at least, for now)
Cartier knows they are going to bug some folks with the fact that a steel model of the Drive de Cartier Extra-Flat isn’t available (at least, for now)

Cartier knows they are going to bug some folks with the fact that a steel model of the Drive de Cartier Extra-Flat isn’t available (at least, for now), but it’s promising that entering the second year since its inception, the Drive de Cartier line is being refined. We reviewed a gold “small complication” model that had a busy dial and polarized people. I have a feeling that the Drive de Cartier Moon Phases might get the same reception but the Drive de Cartier Extra-Flat is just a slick, subtle stunner that makes me want an invite to a black-tie affair immediately.

Cartier Rotonde De Cartier Mysterious Hour Skeleton Watch Hands-On

I’ve always had a major soft spot for Cartier watches, especially high-end ones. The particular blend of technique, design, and a traditionally Parisian take on luxury makes them feel both conservative and full of personality. The Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Hour uk replica watches Skeleton (debuted here) is a good example of what to look for when you want a Cartier that is much fancier than the ones most people have, but not so exotic as to make it challenging to wear on a regular basis.

The particular blend of technique, design, and a traditionally Parisian take on luxury makes them feel both conservative and full of personality.
The particular blend of technique, design, and a traditionally Parisian take on luxury makes them feel both conservative and full of personality.

Cartier recently announced that their Haute Horlogerie division would significantly slow down production – as I understand it will focus instead on more practical, accessible (i.e. simple and less complicated) high-end watches. Exotic tourbillons and highly technical and original movements which the brand has received many accolades for will be increasingly uncommon as the brand transitions to mostly service existing watches and producing a smaller number of very exclusive watches that I believe will focus more on decoration than a novel movement or mechanism.

That leads me to believe that for the most part, outside of “piece unique” creations for special customers, watches like the Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Hour Skeleton might very well represent the top-of-the-line products Cartier makes for men. The watch is actually a combination of three existing items at Cartier, and that includes the Rotonde-style case, “mysterious” movement which has the hour and minute hands on a transparent plane, and on top of that, skeletonization of the in-house made caliber 9981 (which then becomes the caliber 9983) manually wound movement.

We’ve substantially seen all this before, and this watch more or less Cartier replica watches represents Cartier wanting to make the most out of its movements by offering them in a variety of cases. For instance, if you love the Mysterious Hour Skeleton but prefer the Cartier Cle case, they have a watch for you in the Cle de Cartier Mysterious Hour watch (hands-on here). The “non-Skeleton” version of the Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Hour Skeleton watch was actually the first model to debut this style of “mystery dial movement” in 2013 (hands-on with the Rotonde de Cartier Mystery Hour here).

We’ve substantially seen all this before, and this watch more or less represents Cartier wanting to make the most out of its movements by offering them in a variety of cases.
We’ve substantially seen all this before, and this watch more or less represents Cartier wanting to make the most out of its movements by offering them in a variety of cases.

Such designs have a long history going back to early 20th century table clocks produced by Cartier. At the time, it was en vogue for some brands (Cartier included) to produce mystery dial clocks. Many of these Art Deco style creations celebrated the intriguing optical illusion created when the hands were not mounted to the dial via a stem as is the case in a traditional watch, but rather mounted on a transparent plate, which itself features hidden gearing used to move it around the dial.

A skeletonized mystery watch is ironic since the skeletonization part sort of “ruins” the mystery. I’ve not seen anyone comment on this, but it wouldn’t stop me from having an otherwise enjoyable experience with a product such as this. In fact, if you liked the original Mystery Hour watch but wanted to “see even more,” then this Skeleton version might be right for you. Note that the privilege of having a skeletonized version of the Mystery complication watch will cost about $15,000 USD more than the non-skeleton model.

A skeletonized mystery watch is ironic since the skeletonization part sort of “ruins” the mystery. I’ve not seen anyone comment on this
A skeletonized mystery watch is ironic since the skeletonization part sort of “ruins” the mystery. I’ve not seen anyone comment on this

At 42mm wide in palladium (exclusively for now I believe) the Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Hour Skeleton is just as wearable and comfortable as any Rotonde model. Why palladium? Good question; Cartier likely wants to know if you find the exotic and of-questionable-utility rare material exclusive. The round-case has a bit of French flair (even though it is Swiss Made) with its signature Cartier-style crown with blue sapphire crystal stone cabochon (note while in the past Cartier used mainly blue sapphire crystal for the cabochon, only its higher-end models these days get sapphire while more mainstream-intention models have blue spinel), and attractive, rounded bezel matched to the lugs.

Cartier Rotonde De Cartier Mysterious Watches For 2018 Watch Releases

SIHH 2018 is just months away, but we are already hearing about some of the new watches that will be released. Today, we have a pair of Cartier Rotonde De Cartier Mysterious watches – the Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Day & Night and the Rotonde de Cartier Skeleton Mysterious Double Tourbillon.

The idea for these Mysterious Watches actually comes from the Mystery Clocks that Cartier made way back in the early 20th century. These clocks Cartier replica watches were notable because [SPOILER ALERT] their hands were fixed onto clear discs driven by gears just out of view, creating the impression that they were floating on the dial. This iconic look has been adapted for a number of Cartier’s watches and they make for interesting viewing.

The idea for these Mysterious Watches actually comes from the Mystery Clocks that Cartier made way back in the early 20th century.
The idea for these Mysterious Watches actually comes from the Mystery Clocks that Cartier made way back in the early 20th century.

The Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Day & Night is available in a 40mm 18k pink gold or white gold case. Cartier fans will be pleased to know it also comes with the brand’s signature blue sapphire cabochon crown. Water resistance is rated at 30m.

The dial is divided into two halves. The top half features a day & night complication and also shows the hours in the form of a 12-hour scale that uk replica watches reads from six to six. In the day, a sun will appear on the dial and make its way from left to right. The hours are read simply by looking at the position of the sun in relation to the 12-hour scale. When it is night, a moon will appear and likewise will make its 12-hour journey from left to right. The bottom half of the dial features a radiating guilloché pattern in the center and a retrograde minutes display.

The Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Day & Night is powered by the in-house hand-wound Caliber 9982 MC, which is visible through the sapphire display caseback. Made out of 174 components, it beats at 4Hz and has a power reserve of at least 48 hours.

The dial is divided into two halves. The top half features a day & night complication and also shows the hours in the form of a 12-hour scale that reads from six to six.
The dial is divided into two halves. The top half features a day & night complication and also shows the hours in the form of a 12-hour scale that reads from six to six.

The second watch, the Rotonde de Cartier Skeleton Mysterious Double Tourbillon is based on the Rotonde Mysterious Double Tourbillon watch that was unveiled at SIHH in 2013. Case size is 45mm wide and it is only available in platinum. For those who want a little more bling, there are also two additional versions, one with a paved diamond bezel and another with a paved diamond case and movement.

Skeletonization is a much misunderstood art and I think a lot of people fail to appreciate just how difficult it is to take material away from the movement and still maintain proper aesthetics and structural integrity. In the case of the Rotonde de Cartier Skeleton Mysterious Double Tourbillon, the bridges have been artfully skeletonized to take the shape of Roman numerals. In addition, the skeletonization of the movement has further accentuated the action of the double flying tourbillon.

Here, the double flying tourbillon makes a single rotation around the mystery dial once every 60 seconds. As a result, it also doubles as a seconds indicator. And while it does this, it makes a second rotation on its own once every five minutes. The hours and minutes are read off the two blued steel sword-style hands above the tourbillon.

The Rotonde de Cartier Skeleton Mysterious Double Tourbillon is powered by the Caliber 9465 MC, which consists of 286 components, beats at 3Hz, and has a power reserve of at least 52 hours. It is also Poinçon de Genève certified, which means the movement has to meet strict criteria with regard to its finishing and materials. In short, expect the movement to be expertly finished.

The Rotonde de Cartier Skeleton Mysterious Double Tourbillon is powered by the Caliber 9465 MC
The Rotonde de Cartier Skeleton Mysterious Double Tourbillon is powered by the Caliber 9465 MC

We hope to see more of these two watches at SIHH 2018 early next year. The Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Day & Night watch is priced at $63,000. The Rotonde de Cartier Skeleton Mysterious Double Tourbillon watch is priced at $216,000. If you want one with a paved diamond bezel, it is $324,000, and with a paved diamond case and movement it is $530,000.

New Cartier Crash & Four New Baignoire Ladies’ Watches For 2018 Watch Releases Watches for women

The shaped watch (anything that isn’t round) is a Cartier innovation that is as much a part of its creative heritage as the panther motif, or for that matter, the wristwatch itself – the first wristwatch on record, the Cartier Santos, was square. In 2015, the brand began to revisit its shaped watches, starting with a platinum skeletonized version of the Crash watch, followed a year later with a pink gold version. Last year, it resurrected the square-shaped Panther – which had been discontinued in the early 2000s – introducing a full collection with a Cartier replica watches new movement and a slightly revamped bracelet. In January at SIHH, Cartier revisits the Crash again with a new model, and introduces four new pieces in the Baignoire series of mostly oval cases. The new models are all part of the Libre collection. All but the new Crash contain quartz movements.

The shaped watch (anything that isn’t round) is a Cartier innovation that is as much a part of its creative heritage as the panther motif
The shaped watch (anything that isn’t round) is a Cartier innovation that is as much a part of its creative heritage as the panther motif

 

The Crash watch was introduced in 1967, inspired by the remnants of a client’s Baignoire Allongé watch that had been mangled in a fiery car crash. The watch was an interpretation of the surrealist art popular at the time. It was revisited in the early 1990s and again in 2013 as a ladies’ collection. In 2015, it was given haute horlogerie status as the Crash Skeleton, with an openworked manufacture movement designed to fit the distorted case shape. The new uk replica watches Crash Radieuse takes the Crash to the next level, with a seemingly crumpled case and dial, with barely-visible stretched Roman numerals. The case is yellow gold and it contains the manually-wound caliber 8970 MC. It is a numbered limited edition of 50 pieces.

The Baignoire Débordante is designed as a starburst, with openworked white gold spikes emanating from the center of the oval dial. The stems are set front and back with diamonds and black spinels, with the spinels focused at the top and bottom ends. The watch, a limited edition of 50 pieces, contains a quartz movement.

The Baignoire Débordante is designed as a starburst, with openworked white gold spikes emanating from the center of the oval dial.
The Baignoire Débordante is designed as a starburst, with openworked white gold spikes emanating from the center of the oval dial.

The Baignoire Infinie is a four-layer composition of concentric rings radiating out from the center dial. The rings are set randomly with baguette diamonds, white mother-of-pearl, black Tahitian mother-of-pearl, and black spinel. The circle appears to be cut off at the sides. The movement is quartz and it is limited to 20 pieces.

The Baignoire Étoilée is a jeweled watch with a delicate bracelet composed of small round and square-cut gems randomly set in an openworked link structure. The upended square shape of the gems is repeated as a pattern on the dial of the east-west oval case, which is set with a double of row of white diamonds on top and a double row of black spinels below. The 18k white gold bracelet is set with diamonds and black spinels. The movement is quartz and it is limited to 15 pieces.

The Baignoire Étoilée is a jeweled watch with a delicate bracelet composed of small round and square-cut gems randomly set in an openworked link structure.
The Baignoire Étoilée is a jeweled watch with a delicate bracelet composed of small round and square-cut gems randomly set in an openworked link structure.

The Baignoire Interdite is all about Cartier’s signature Roman numerals, which crisscross the east-west oval dial. They are coated in black ADLC for dramatic contrast with the white dial. The bezel is set with white diamonds. The movement is quartz and it is limited to 50 pieces.

Opdateret Cartier Santos ure introducerer nye QuickSwitch & SmartLink Systems Watch Releases

Nyt for SIHH 2018, afslører Cartier deres opdaterede Santos de Cartier Collection. Borte er den enkle firkantede firkant, og medfølger er en tilspidset, uk replica watches formet firkant, der strækker sig til lugs for at give en langstrakt (tør jeg sige mindre gammeldags) udseende uden at gå på kompromis med den firkantede form af skiven. Den virkelige stjerne af showet er dog, hvad Cartier kalder deres “QuickSwitch” og “SmartLink” armbåndssystemer.

Den virkelige stjerne af showet er dog, hvad Cartier kalder deres "QuickSwitch" og "SmartLink" armbåndssystemer.
Den virkelige stjerne af showet er dog, hvad Cartier kalder deres “QuickSwitch” og “SmartLink” armbåndssystemer. 

Samlingen blev inspireret af et partnerskab mellem den berømte brasilianske luftfartstekniker Alberto Santos-Dumont og mærket. Gavning fra en klage over, at det var svært at tjekke hans lommeur under flyvning, satte Louis Cartier sig op for at skabe, hvad mærket hævder var “den første målstyrede armbåndsur” i 1904 ved at tilføje en tynd læderrem med et lille spænde. Det var nok også den første pilotens ur (og nogle ville hævde den første moderne armbåndsur). Piloture er kommet langt siden da, og mens det ville være svært at sammenligne Santos de Cartier-samlingen med en hvilken som helst moderne iteration af, hvad der skulle betragtes som en “traditionel” pilot’s ur, opdateringen passer til et moderne landskab, og jeg personligt føler det giver en tiltrængt renovering til samlingen.

Santos de Cartier replica watches Collection kommer i en række forskellige smag – et komplet stål sæt, en to-tone stål og guld, et fuldt guld og et lyserød guldsæt. Hver sag måler på 39,8 mm med en tykkelse på 9 mm. Mens nogle måske siger, at det er lidt tykt for et kjoleur, tror jeg, at de opdaterede koniske hjørner vil hjælpe denne glide under en manschett pænt. Beholderen holder sine velkendte 8 skruer, men mærkerne vil straks mærke til den lille forandring i form – i stedet for en solid firkantet firkant har Cartier spidset hjørnerne til at flyde ind i lugsene, næsten forkæler bruddet i armbåndet og sagen og giver uret noget mere sex-appel, mindre skarpe linjer og en pænt indrammet urskive.

Santos de Cartier Collection kommer i en række forskellige smag - et komplet stål sæt
Santos de Cartier Collection kommer i en række forskellige smag – et komplet stål sæt

Der er to dial variationer til Santos de Cartier. Den første er den traditionelle, lidt raffinerede hvide urskive med romerske tal indekser og en dato klokken 6 o’clock. Denne variation af uret udnytter Cartiers 1847 kaliber. Den anden er skeletoniseret og anvender Cartiers 9611-MC kaliber, der “flyder” inde i en overdimensioneret romersk talramme. Dette er min favorit i bunken, da jeg føler, at den belyser en masse Cartier’s out-of-the-box design DNA. På grund af skruen ned krone design, hvert ur bærer en vandmodstand vurdering på op til 100m.

Imidlertid er de rigtige vindere i denne opdaterede samling stropper og armbåndsoptioner, med “QuickSwitch” og “SmartLink” -teknologien bag dem. Cartier lægger stor vægt på deres rem og armbånd system, fordi det var en så integreret del af udviklingen af ​​deres første armbåndsur. På grund af dette designet Cartier disse stropper omkring komfort, ergonomi og fleksibilitet. De ønskede, at uret skulle have evnen til at skræddersy til enhver situation – hurtigt og komfortabelt. Så, når nogen køber en Santos de Cartier, vil de derfor blive præsenteret med både et armbånd, der matcher sagematerialet og en læderrem.

Hvis du er ligesom mig og bytter stropper ofte, så kender du den besværlige og ofte ligefrem frustrerende indsats, det er at ændre din rem. “QuickSwitch” -mekanismen gør det muligt for brugeren blot at trykke en lille rektangulær knap under uretbåndet for at frigøre det fra sagen – ingen fjederstænger, skruetrækkere eller monteringer er nødvendige. Dette er ikke ligefrem ny teknologi, men jeg har bemærket og været overrasket over antallet af mærker, der trækker deres fødder på at implementere det. Jeg var begejstret for at se Tag Heuer Connected med denne funktion, og jeg håber, at flere mærker vil se og vedtage det.

Hvis du er ligesom mig og bytter stropper ofte, så kender du den besværlige og ofte ligefrem frustrerende indsats
Hvis du er ligesom mig og bytter stropper ofte, så kender du den besværlige og ofte ligefrem frustrerende indsats

Med “SmartLink Self-Fit” -teknologien kan en bærer justere armbåndets størrelse igen, uden værktøj. Hvert link vil have sin egen knap, som når den trykkes, vil frigive fra linket over det, hvilket giver mulighed for hurtig og nem dimensionering, du kan gøre på farten. I teorien lyder det godt, selvom jeg allerede kan høre greb om skruerne, der er “rent dekorative”.

Cartier Santos Watches For 2018 Will Be A Hit With Buyers Hands-On

At SIHH 2018 Cartier replica watches is positioning the Santos collection as one of their key highlights for 2018 (debuted on aBlogtoWatch here). That means the Parisian brand just released a refreshed version of one of the most famous square-cased watches of all time – born at a time when the wristwatch was an infant in the early 20th Century. The 2018 Santos collection features a lot of exciting new things for one of Cartier’s most important watch collections – as well as a new reason to have interest in a genuine classic. It’s hard for me to say that Cartier improved upon the Santos – because I still feel that the outgoing generation models are pretty special. With that said, Cartier certainly modernized the Santos while making an important part of their brand character appealing to a new group of watch buyers.

the Santos while making an important part of their brand character appealing to a new group of watch buyers.
the Santos while making an important part of their brand character appealing to a new group of watch buyers. 

Cartier was pretty excited to share the various models in the new Santos collection with us. The Santos comes in a few styles, as well as two case sizes. There is the 35.1mm wide, 41.9mm lug-to-lug, and 8.83mm thick “Medium” Santos which Cartier mostly intends for women, and then the 39.8mm wide, 47.5mm lug-to-lug, and 9.08mm thick “Large” Santos which is what most men will prefer. Aside from the case size difference, another difference between the Medium and Large Santos cases is the existence of a date window on the dial. It is absent from the smaller model, and exists at the 6 o’clock position on the dial of the larger model.

The uk replica watches Santos case has been totally redesigned by Cartier. The most noticeable thing about the updated Santos is how much it has slimmed down. The previous iteration for men was called the Santos 100, or Santos XL. It was the same roughly 38mm wide size, but felt larger because of increased case thickness. There was a welcome masculinity to the thicker, older models, but the new ones are clearly more impressive from an engineering standpoint, and the thinner size means the Santos is again an excellent dress watch choice for men.

The new bezel is going to be a hit with some for sure, but I can certainly understand some people preferring the outgoing square-style bezel design.
The new bezel is going to be a hit with some for sure, but I can certainly understand some people preferring the outgoing square-style bezel design.

Water resistant to 100m, Cartier is also now boasting magnetic-resistance qualities for the Santos. Though this has more to do with the movement than the case. Devotees of the Santos watch will immediately see that even though the overall presentation of the 2018 Santos is similar to previous versions, there are many changes. Perhaps the most visually obvious (aside from the case proportions) is the bezel. No longer is it totally square, but now has “lips” on the top and bottom which are designed to visually connect the bezel with the bracelet design. More on the bracelet shortly. The new bezel is going to be a hit with some for sure, but I can certainly understand some people preferring the outgoing square-style bezel design.

The Santos wouldn’t be the Santos without screws in the bezel and bracelet. This is an element Cartier didn’t mess with, which is a good thing. Born during a time when metal building construction was becoming popular, it was a point of modern industrial pride to have exposed screws on many early 20th century items – including some watches such as the Cartier Santos.

Cartier keeps legibility very high on the new Santos watches because it retains the use of a white dial with black markers and blued steel hands. I have a feeling Cartier will introduce more dial colors in the future, but I doubt any of them will be as legible as this color and texture combination. The blue color of the hands is complimented by the blue spinel cabochon in the crown. Cartier has for a while stopped using sapphire crystals for the crown cabochons with the exception of of their really high-end pieces.

 The 1847 MC movement operates at 4Hz and has about two days of power reserve.
The 1847 MC movement operates at 4Hz and has about two days of power reserve.

Also new for the Santos collection is the use of Cartier movements as opposed to those from an outside Richemont Group supplier. Now the Cartier Santos is equipped with the reliable Cartier caliber 1847 MC automatic movement. When considering magnetic resistance, Cartier doesn’t use silicon parts, but they do claim to use non-magnetic metal alloys for the escapement and some other movement parts as well as a magnetic shield over the movement. This is part of a new trend in the watch industry to deploy anti-magnetic technology to more and more movements as part of a “relevancy” strategy. Though it is hard not to assume brands such as Omega (with METAS certification) played a big role in pushing this trend. The 1847 MC movement operates at 4Hz and has about two days of power reserve.

Cartier Santos De Cartier Skeleton Watch In Steel For 2018 Hands-On Hands-On

Here’s some food for thought: when was the last time a luxury watch offered by one of the big-big brands looked genuinely more expensive than it actually was? While running high into the 20-thousands is certainly not cheap by any stretch of the imagination, from afar the Cartier Santos De Cartier Skeleton in steel is something that looks as though it ran for twice its sticker price. Too bad it just isn’t as good as it could be, somehow.

that looks as though it ran for twice its sticker price. Too bad it just isn’t as good as it could be, somehow.
that looks as though it ran for twice its sticker price. Too bad it just isn’t as good as it could be, somehow.

Is a bit under $27k far too much, or is it the bargain of the century for an extensively skeletonized, modern-sized Cartier men’s wristwatch in steel? When I look at the all-steel bracelet and case that is of identical refinement in the $6,900 “regular” Santos that was also introduced at SIHH 2018 along with this piece – and a host of other permutations to the Santos that we covered hands-on here – I think near-27 large ones is quite a stretch. However, when I look at the overall impact that the extensively skeletonized dial makes, I’m suddenly reminded of Cartier replica watches from recent times that fetched up to a few times (!) this much – and, in that respect, this is a rather unexpected undercut on those. Oh, for the record, the piece debuted with a price tag of $25,300 but is now listed for $26,800. Maybe it’s just me, but somehow ~$25k sounds much more competitive than $27k.

uk replica watches So what’s with this new piece? It has to be said that such a watch is not something you see everyday from brands of Cartier-magnitude – and when they do show up, they do so with a high-five-figure price tag and a low double-digit limited edition run. Cartier apparently realized its in-house potential when it comes to producing plates and bridges and went berserk with one of its established hand-wound calibers. Cartier didn’t say this but then again they didn’t have to, because I had the gut instinct that this by every chance will not be an all-new movement but rather, a hollowed-out take on one of its already existing calibers – one of many clever moves to keep costs and the final price down.

a hollowed-out take on one of its already existing calibers – one of many clever moves to keep costs and the final price down.
a hollowed-out take on one of its already existing calibers – one of many clever moves to keep costs and the final price down.

As such, I found the 9611 MC Cartier caliber in the steel Cartier Santos De Cartier Skeleton to be based on the 96xx MC family of movements (I had no idea what this caliber was called until just now, but the layout of the bridges and skeletonization was telling me this must indeed be based on something pre-existing). Just look at the 9602 MC and you’ll see the very same layout of keyless works, gear train, jewels, screws, and so on – although that particular movement has a big date feature fitted onto its dial side, the caseback looks identical.

The curved front crystal does not provide the greatest viewing experience. I found it distorts or just simply isn’t sharp when viewed from some angles – and not because of its curved shape, but rather its overall quality that doesn’t provide as crisp a view as some other watches like, for example, Grand Seikos do. Having shot over 70,000 watch images with the same camera and lens setup (and many thousands more on a previous camera) I can at this point tell when I screw something up in my photography and when it is the crystal that just isn’t as good as it could be.

I can at this point tell when I screw something up in my photography and when it is the crystal that just isn’t as good as it could be.
I can at this point tell when I screw something up in my photography and when it is the crystal that just isn’t as good as it could be.

The finishing gets better the closer you get. That’s because the first impression from afar is that of a machined look, with the extensive brushed surfaces and the industrial ambiance enforced by the grey wheels and gears and springs that peek back at you from within. The anglage however is nicely done, even if that too has an unmistakably machined look. If these are done by hand, then Cartier has to accept my apologies – and perhaps invite us to visit the manufacture and see how these are done over there… Because if I follow the shiny lines along the edges of the plates what I see is a CNC machine running along them – and not a craftsman sitting there with a tiny tool hand-polishing these edges. It has to be said though, that even on very high-end pieces from some very high-end brands (large or otherwise), anglage is pre-done by the extremely capable CNC machines that are becoming more and more omnipresent in the industry – and the edges are only to be touched up and polished.

Cartier Santos Watch Review: The New For 2018 Model Wrist Time Reviews

When Cartier released the previous generation “Santos 100” collection in 2004, it was in honor of the 100th anniversary of what is one of the first original watch designs ever created. I reviewed the Cartier Santos 100 here on aBlogtoWatch a couple years ago and still feel very fondly about that model – but more on that later. Today my focus is on the new “Santos de Cartier” Large Model that Cartier released in early 2018. Cartier wanted to make sure the new Santos watches would hit stores soon after the debut (a practice not very common in the watch industry) and early reports are that sales of the new Santos models are strong. The specific model I reviewed is the Cartier Santos reference W2SA0006, which has a two-tone steel and 18k yellow gold case as well as the larger 39.8mm case (Cartier also produces a smaller 35.1mm wide version of the new Santos).

 which has a two-tone steel and 18k yellow gold case as well as the larger 39.8mm case (Cartier also produces a smaller 35.1mm wide version of the new Santos).
which has a two-tone steel and 18k yellow gold case as well as the larger 39.8mm case (Cartier also produces a smaller 35.1mm wide version of the new Santos).

There is a lot to say about the Cartier Santos for 2018 and I discussed a lot of the overall collection details and highlights on aBlogtoWatch in this article here. In that article you’ll read more about the available models (and their prices) as well as what Cartier is trying to accomplish with the new Santos collection. Cartier replica watches This review will build on my discussion of the Santos in previous articles such as the above linked-to Santos 100 review.

What I also do in this article is present some pictures of both this new Cartier Santos W2SA0006 as well as what I consider to be the watch’s previous generation model (that is uncommon due to its limited distribution), which is the Santos 100 W200728G. That former model is uncommon because it offered a full bracelet as opposed to just a strap, which most of the Santos 100 watch models were equipped with. I found the comparison of these two watches to be very interesting because you can clearly see what is similar in the models as well as what is different.

Let me sum up the major highlights of the new for 2018 Cartier Santos watches. First, the cases and bracelets are significantly thinner and for some people, probably more comfortable to wear (as compared to the previous generation large-case models, like the Santos 100 Large). There is also the new bezel design which isn’t a huge element, but it does offer a rather distinctive look for the new models. The case contains an in-house automatic movement, and of course the biggest news is the quick release (“QuickSwitch” uk replica watches as Cartier calls it) bracelet/strap system, as well as the tool-less link changing system (“SmartLink”) that lets you adjust the bracelet quickly, easily, and without tools (assuming you currently have fingernails).

 as well as the tool-less link changing system (“SmartLink”) that lets you adjust the bracelet quickly, easily, and without tools (assuming you currently have fingernails).
as well as the tool-less link changing system (“SmartLink”) that lets you adjust the bracelet quickly, easily, and without tools (assuming you currently have fingernails).

My overall impressions of the Cartier Santos Large Model are very good. Some also say that the smaller model can also be worn as a men’s watch, but I’m pretty sure that in the West, the vast majority of 35.1mm wide Santos models will be sold to women. Aside from the size, the primary difference between the larger and smaller Santos model is the placement of a date window display (which exists on the larger model but not on the smaller model).

Compared to the previous generation Santos 100 Large, the new 9.08mm thick, thinner Santos model wears a lot more like a dress watch. “Thin is in” when it comes to wristwatches. There are always cyclical design trends and this is not the first time a company has championed a thinner design as opposed to something larger. If you are someone who wears sleeves or generally likes your watches to be a bit more “out of the way,” then the thinner profile of the new Cartier Santos watches will certainly appeal to you.

If you are someone who wears sleeves or generally likes your watches to be a bit more “out of the way,” then the thinner profile of the new Cartier Santos watches will certainly appeal to you.
If you are someone who wears sleeves or generally likes your watches to be a bit more “out of the way,” then the thinner profile of the new Cartier Santos watches will certainly appeal to you.

In steel the new Santos case is water-resistant to 100m and has an elegantly curved sapphire crystal. The case is well-made with both brushed and polished surfaces. Set in the crown is a blue spinel cabochon. Cartier once used sapphire crystal cabochons, but they only do that on their high-end models these days. You can see just how similar the newer and older Santos cases are from a design perspective. This includes much of the crown guard structure as well as the geometric crown itself. The watch is available in all steel (or all pink or yellow gold), but I prefer the two-tone look of the watch in steel and 18k yellow gold the most. One of the reasons is that the gold screws in the bracelet contrast more and add visual interest. Second is the same increase in contrast, thanks to the gold bezel.